Food review

Week 10: Leos Spaghetti Bar


Leos Spaghetti Bar in St Kilda has been a Fitzroy Street icon since it’s opening in 1956. Popular for decades, it only felt fitting to dine at this Spaghetti Bar as part of my search for Melbourne’s best. Knowing the Spaghetti would be followed by a bowl of their famously delicious gelati, I was looking forward to this one.

I had mixed feelings towards the presentation – I was pleased to see the sauce stirred through, and the sauce looking of promising thickness and consistency, but the plate was sloppy and the garnish was rather passé. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a nice touch of parsley to adorn the plate, but the curly leaf twig belongs to the previous millennium.

The sauce was thick with the clumps petite. A few bigger clumps were scattered throughout, which I didn’t mind. The meat was tender, but the sauce was under seasoned. The most obvious flavour imbalance was the sweetness – more acidity was definitely needed. Lacking was the ballsy tomato-rich kick a good bolognese deserves.

Pasta is the vehicle that transports the sauce. If overcooked the overall texture of the dish is affected. Disappointingly, this was one such pasta and the works turned to mush soon after fork entered mouth.

Certainly not my favourite but points for very tender meat, sauce texture, pasta-to-sauce ratio, stirring the sauce through, and size.

Price: $15
Score: 12/20

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