Situated in Little Collins Street next to Bar Lourinha and a stones throw away from past spag blog hangouts, Grossi Florentino, Pellegrini’s and Spaghetti Tree, Lupino is the second creation from Becco co-owners Marco Lori and Richard Lodge. Becco, also located in the CBD, is more upmarket and don’t offer spaghetti bolognese on their menu. Lupino on the other hand, does.
Lupino do a really special version. They match their bolognese sauce with tagliatelle, which is reminiscent of the Bologna kind. Presentation was how I like it – sauce stirred through, with a generous dollop on top and ample shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
My first taste impression was WOW. The meat was pulled, much like a traditional ragu, which made for a wonderful texture combining clumps and strings of meat. The sauce was incredibly tender and just melted away on my tongue. The pasta was on the money with perfect elastin to each strand.
Judging on flavour, this one had it. The meat to tomato taste ratio was excellent – balanced just right. The sauce was rich and well developed with acidity and sweetness. It was perfectly seasoned, but did leave a slight after taste.
The bolognese wrapped the pasta well, leaving little liquid at the bottom. It was quite a thick sauce, which I enjoy, though I feel there could have been a touch more liquid as it was a tad dry.
All in all, an exceptional bolognese which wont disappoint bolognese lovers.
Note: dishes which score 16+ are contenders for the title of Melbourne’s best Spaghetti Bolognese. All scores above 16/20 will be disclosed at the end of the year long taste testing in September 2012.